If you enjoy reading about wine like I do, these are some of the excellent sources I have discovered.
The Sommelier Prep Course, Michael Gibson.
Wine Folly, Madeline Puckett and Justin Hammack.
The Wine Bible, Karen MacNeil.
If you enjoy reading about wine like I do, these are some of the excellent sources I have discovered.
The Sommelier Prep Course, Michael Gibson.
Wine Folly, Madeline Puckett and Justin Hammack.
The Wine Bible, Karen MacNeil.
Argentina is becoming a travel destination for wine lovers from around the world. Argentina is categorized as a “New World” wine country. Although the first vines were planted in Argentina in the 1550’s by Spanish explorers, commercial wine production did not become a reality until the 1800’s. An influx of European immigrants to Argentina, with a taste for European style wines and the knowledge to make these wines, propelled this country into the wine producing country that it is today. Argentina is ranked fifth in the world in total wine production. When most people think of Argentina as a wine growing region, they tend to think of Malbec as the predominant wine that is produced in Argentina. But the country is growing many other red grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, and delicious white wines, such as Torrontes.
Something to keep in mind when planning a trip to Argentinian wine country, is that harvest time is during the month of April. Due to the fact that Argentina is in the southern hemisphere of the globe, the seasons will be opposite from what people are used to that live in the northern hemisphere. Therefore, if you plan to visit Argentina in your summer, be prepared for cool temperatures and a lot of rain. Depending on where in the country you choose to visit, southern parts of the country, which are further from the equator, will be cooler than in the northern areas that are closer to the equator. Of course, if you will be visiting areas that are at a higher altitude you should also then prepare for cooler temperatures and a more damp climate than in the areas of the country that are at a lower altitude.
For many tourists it is easier to visit wine bars and wine tasting rooms and wine stores, rather than visiting the wineries, themselves. The sellers of wines and those who work in the wine bars can give excellent advise on what wines are the best that are offered in their country. As with all countries, it seems that the best examples of Argentine wines will be found to be sold only in their country. The best examples are produced by small producers without enough production ability to make exporting their product to very large country with such enormous quantity demands, such as the United States, a reality. I guarantee you, the best Malbec’s that you will ever enjoy will be found only while visiting Argentina, making Argentina a worth while wine travel destination!
Not all wineries in Argentina allow visitors, but here is a list of a few that you may visit while on holiday in Argentina.
Wineries in Argentina:
Kaiken-The Montes family of Chile also owns the Argentine winery called Kaiken. Kaiken offers wine tastings and guided tours of their winery. No reservations required, tours given during normal business hours. Roque Saenz Peña 5561, Las Compuertas, Vistalba, Luján de Cuyo www.kaikenwines.com
Mendel Winery-Roberto de la Terrada 1863, Mayor Drummond, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza. www.mendel.com.ar
Pulenta Estate-Ruta Provincial 86. Km 6,5. Alto Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo, www.pulentaestate.com
Ruca Malen-Ruta Nacional 7, Km. 1059, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo, www.bodegarucamalen.com
Tempus Alba-is located in the historic town of Maipu. Located just outside the town’s limits in the rural neighborhood of Coquimbito, Tempus. Carril Perito Moreno 572, Coquimbito, Maipu, www.tempusalba.com
Andeluna-Located near the town of Tupungato. www.andeluna.com
Atamisque-RP 86 Km. 30, San José, Tupungato, www.atamisque.com
Salentein-RP 89 s/n, Vista Flores, Tunuyán, www.killkasalentein.com
O.Fournier-Located in Mendoza, O. Fournier is located at 4,000 feet altitude in the Andes, making it one of the highest wine-growing regions in the world. Los Indios s/n, La Consulta, San Carlos, www.ofurnier.com
The wines of Argentina-Torrontes in a fabulous dry white wine with strong floral notes. Malbec is the red wine that has made Argentina famous. Bonarda. Syrah.
There are some wonderful blends that you should definitely try while visiting Argentina. You will find blends made of Petite Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Cabernet Fran, that when blended with Malbec makes a much smoother, softer and slightly less tannic wine, than when Malbec stands alone. Malbec by itself is a fabulous wine for the meat that Argentina is famous for, but sometimes with salmon or chicken you may prefer a red that is a little lighter, then one of these delicious blends might be just what you are looking for.
Argentina is a beautiful county that produces excellent wines. The problem with Argentina as a wine destination is that the wine growing regions are a very long drive from the capital of Argentina, which is Buenos Aires. The wine producing areas of Argentina are actually easier to get to by flying in to Chile, however; there are more frequent flights from the United States to Buenos Aires, than there are to cities within Chile, so even though it is time consuming to travel from Buenos Aires to the wine region of Argentina, you may find that Buenos Aires may be the most convenient option for you. There are flights from Buenos Aires to Argentinian wine country.
Buenos Aires is a fabulous gateway city to begin your visit to the wine country of Argentina.
Safety and Security:
Buenos Aires is a high crime city. Please use your best street sense when visiting. The people of Argentina are some of the nicest in the world. However, Argentina is a poor country with a very small middle class and an even smaller upper class. There are many poor, unemployed people, so most of the crime on the street is crime of desperation. You can have a very nice time in Argentina, but you need to always be aware and alert, to ensure that you are not one of the victims.
Changing Money:
At one time there was a black market for changing money in Argentina. The bank rate was very low compared with the rate that local businesses would give you. This was known as the “Blue Rate”. The government got wise to the illegal black market transactions that were being conducted. In order to combat the black market, the government raised the official exchange rate to what the black market was offering. Some stores and restaurants still accept US currency, but you should ask what exchange rate they will offer you. Sometimes it is better to change your money to Pesos first, because all stores and restaurants do not offer the same rate. Some restaurants will have a price list for US Dollars, but often it is not as good of prices as the regular menu prices in pesos. At the time of this writing On May 1, 2017, the official exchange rate is 15.50 Pesos to one dollar. If you have cash you should ask if there is a discount for using cash as opposed to using your credit card.
Some business do take US Currency. Some will not. Some will give you a discount for providing them with US Currency. Most shop owners prefer, for large purchases, for you to pay them with larger currencies of $50 or $100 dollar bills. Most business also take major credit cards, such as Visa and MasterCard. Most do not take American Express.
You may change money at your hotel, but you all get one of the worst exchange rates at the hotels.
There are businesses such as various shoe stores and tailor shops on Florida Street that will change money for you. This is illegal, although I do not know of any tourist that has been prosecuted for changing money illegally. If you wish to change money this way, listen for people saying, “Cambio”. These people on the street are hired by the businesses. If you agree to change money with them they will then take you into a shop where you will change money. It is a way to change money, and most are honest and they will give you a much better rate than what you get in a hotel. I prefer to go to an official currency exchange like the one at 142 Florida. At this currency exchange there is a window, you walk up and give him your US Currency or Euros, and they tell you the rate you will be receiving. What I like about this currency exchange is that the cashier uses a machine and the money is counted out right in front of you. Just a note, if you are in Buenos Aires on a Sunday, almost everything is closed on Florida Street. The only way to get money on a Sunday is by going to an ATM. Incidentally, almost everything on Sundays in the entire city of Buenos Aires is closed, including many restaurants. Sunday morning is a fabulous time to take pictures in this city, because the streets are almost deserted!
Another way to get cash is by using your ATM card at a cash machine. As in every country, be very aware of your surroundings and watch for thieves loitering around ATM machines. It is always best to go into a bank to use the ATM, rather than using one outside. Also, look for anything unusual about the ATM machine, as “skimmers” have been known to be used to steal the data in your ATM card, and to potentially drain your bank account.
A word of warning: There is a problem with counterfeit money in Argentina. This is such a big problem in Argentina, that ATM machines have been known to give out counterfeit bills. Unfortunately, for the tourist, it is very difficult for us to spot a fake bill.
Known Scams:
There is a known scam where one or two people will stop you on the street and squirt something on you such as ketchup or mustard and then attempt to help you clean it up. While you are distracted their partner reaches into your pocket and takes your wallet. Be very aware of this scam. You would be surprised at how fast all of this can happen, and that even the most savvy of travels can fall victim to this scam.
I know that this is a very long list of warnings, but I promise you, you can have a fabulous time in Buenos Aires, despite all that you have to look out for.
These are some great neighborhoods:
San Telmo
Recoletta
Palermo
Palermo Hollywood
Palermo Soho
My Recommendations of Wine Bars and Wine Stores:
San Telmo
El Seddon-El Seddon is a beautiful, old wine bar. They have a fabulous selection of wines by the glass. They also have an extensive food menu. They have delicious sandwiches, salads and entrees.
Wine stores are every where in Buenos Aires, and I find that the merchants in the wine store in Buenos Aires are some of the most helpful and friendliest people in the enitre world. They absolutely love to discus with you your preferences and they are very good at making recommendations to suit any budget.
Here is just a small list of some of my favorites. You may also wish to inquire if they have tasting available. Often for just a small fee you can taste some wonderful wines.
My Recommendations:
Things to do:
The Argentine Experience
I highly recommend everyone book an evening at The Argentine Experience. The Argentine Experience is a wonderful introduction to the culture of Argentina. You will be in a small intimate group of other tourists, and enjoy a fun night a drinking, eating, laughing, and learning. There are two options available to you, and I highly recommend the “cocktail hour” before the even begins as an add on. It is well worth the extra money.
If you pay for the additional cocktail hour, your evening will start with a guessing game using wine essences, so this is just right for the wine tourist! Everyone is given paper and pen, and you have to identify scents found in wines. It is a great exercise for a wine lover, and much harder than you may think.
Next you will go to the bar, where the bartender will teach you to make three different types of cocktails that are typical of drinks that Argentinians drink. Everyone is paired up with someone and you must then make each other the cocktails that he just made, so pay very close attention. Then of course, you get to enjoy drinking your cocktails.
Next, you move upstairs and the evening of food and fun begins! You will learn how to make your own empanadas, and then of course, enjoy eating them. Next you will learn all about the cuts of meat and enjoy an actual, traditional parilla. If you do not know what a Parilla is, it is a meal of grilled meats and vegetables, which is absolutely delicious. You will also be introduced to the tradition of sharing “Mate”. In all of my years of travel this evening at the Argentine Experience is one of the most fun and most informative evenings I have ever had. Book this fun evening on line in advance. I promise, you will not regret it!
Flamenco
Many nice shows are available, however, I have found most of them to be quite expensive and very touristy. You are better off seeing free shows in the Doringo Plaza in San Telmo, or on Florida Street. If you stop and enjoy street performer performances, please give these people some money. These people are artists and have very little income. Tipping and payment for things like this can be confusing because there are so many bills in Argentine currency that have so little value. Keep in mind that a 20 peso bill is barely more than a dollar, so you can toss a pile of bills into a tip jar and it still may only be a couple dollars to you.
The Opera House-An excellent tour is available.
The Pink Palace- A tour is available on Saturdays, Sundays and on holidays.
La Recolletta- The cemetery where Argentina’s most beloved dictator, Eva Peron, is buried. It is a must see. Maps are available upon admission to the cemetery.
Shopping:
6W-A favorite shop of mine is called 6W. It is located just off of Florida Street on Paraguay Street. 6W specializes in locally made items all handmade in South America. My favorite gift items are Alpaca silver items with goat, deer or cow horn handles. They offer a variety of wine pourers, trays of all sizes and price ranges and even matching candlesticks. 6W also has hand made rosaries, jewelry, baskets, nativities and even small pieces of furniture. They do not take American Express.
Florida Street is a very long street of shops ranging from chain clothing stores to jewelry stores.
There is a nice mall on Florida Street called “Galleria Pacifica.”
Tours:
Mendoza Holidays is a company that offers wine tours. I have not used this tor company, but in this country, for non spanish speaking travelers, a tour company may be very helpful to you. To contact them email them at: [email protected]
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Pairing food and wine does not have to be intimidating. When pairing meats, and vegetables with wine, these are my super duper, easy peasy, tips to remember.
Tip 1
Don’t stick with what you know you like.
Food changes the taste of wine. This is one of the most beautiful things about wine. When you pair wine with food, wine will take on a totally different taste than if you drink it alone. It makes me frustrated when I hear people say they only drink white wine or they only drink red wine. There’s a whole world of wonderful wines out there! Try them! There’s a time and a place for every wine! Well, except for bad wine…life is too short for bad wine…which should be Tip 7!
Tip 2
The “White with Fish and Red With Beef ” is a rule to be ignored!
When I’m pairing wine with food, I never pay attention to the old rule, “White with fish, red with beef.” I do however, look to the sauce or the seasoning on the meat to direct me as to which wine I should pair it with. Tip 3 will help us match our seasonings to our wine.
Tip 3
Opposites attract.
Most people would instinctually match their food flavors with the flavors. I however; find that if you go opposite, you will have a much more interesting pairing. For example, I love a German Riesling with spicy Asian or Thai food. Inevitably, I get strange looks at dinner with my friends when I order the two together…but honestly the spicy and sweet contrast totally works….so stop looking at me like that….
Tip 4
Stay local.
This is really easy. If you’re eating Italian, drink Italian. If you’re eating French, drink French. I promise you…you almost can’t go wrong.
Tip 5
Don’t be afraid to order wines by the glass.
This is my favorite way to go. Skip the bottle. Go to the glasses section on the menu. Use my other tips to choose a glass to pair with the appetizer of your choice. Then choose another glass for your entree. You have just created a wine pairing meal that restaurants charge loads of extra money for.
Tip 6
When in doubt, go sparkling!
When I am really confused and don’t know what wine to choose, I go sparkling! In my opinion, there is no more versatile and more food friendly wine than a sparkling wine. It is not by accident that most appetizers and salads pair very well with sparkling wine. Sparkling wine makes a great aperitif and is a great way to wake up your palate. Plus, no matter what day it is, it always makes a meal feel extra special, when you hear that cork go pop!
There’s a whole world of wine out there! Get out there…get adventurous, and most of all, ENJOY!